Daniel Woods broke a quickdraw on a sport climb. Petzl have a good guide on why one side uses a grommet and not the other.

This is so the dogbone can move around with the rope as you climb without forcing the carabiner into an unsafe position on the hangar. On the side of the draw where carabiner goes into the hangar – the dogbone is sewn looser. Our Favorite QuickdrawsĪ thick dogbone is helpful to stop the carabiner moving about – making for easier clipping You don’t have to get all the same brand, same length, or the same type (sport/trad). Different lengths give you a bit of leeway if you’re on a wandering route. Having 14 to 16 draws should cover you for basically all sports climbs. We recommend getting two packs of 6 normal “short” length quickdraws with 10-12cm dogbones, plus a minimum of two longer draws with dogbones about 16-18cm. How Many Quickdraws Should I Buy?Ĭonveniently most quickdraws get sold in packs of 6. Technically you clip into the hangar but the bolt is what keeps the hangar in the wall.

We’re also using the words bolts and hangars interchangeably here. Our best advice is to take a look at the route, count the bolts if you can see them, then take 2 or 3 extra draws just in case. As quickdraw weight in sport climbing isn’t a huge factor it’s never worth skimping. If we clip a quickdraw into every hangar and use one quickdraw to help re-thread the anchor and lower through the chains – that’s exactly 12 quickdraws.įor longer routes you may need 15-16 depending on the bolting. We recommend using a Personal Anchor System like the Petzl Connect Adjust for easier re-threading and cleaning at the anchors.Īs an example let’s take a 25 meter (82 foot) climb with the first bolt at 3 meters and another bolt every two meters (6.5 foot) from there.

Normally the first hangar is at least two or three meters up.ĭepending on how you clean the anchors to come down you’ll probably need one or two quickdraws spare at the top. On a modern, well bolted route you might have one hangar every two meters. Most sport climbing routes are around 20-30 meters. We recommend taking 12 quickdraws for most climbs. Make sure you have the right amount of quickdraws to safely get up and back down a route with our easy to understand guide. If you are newer to outdoors climbing or sport climbing, getting the right gear is a big help. Share on Facebook Share on Twitter Share on Pinterest

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